We're going to go over some battery information and power considerations for predator lights.
Most predator lights work using SLA batteries, known as Sealed Lead Acid. If you want super info on these types, Google them and learn a lot, but I can tell you a few things about them:
1. They don't like to be driven below a certain level, or they WILL croak and sometimes you can't bring them back with your charger, e.g., a 12 volter shouldn't be driven below 10.5 volts, a 6 below 4.5 volts. Basically, when your light is getting real dim, turn it OFF and slap the battery on a charger ASAP.
2. They like to be charged SLOW! No high current chargers or standard car battery chargers please. They respond VERY WELL to a "smart" charger, like the Battery Minder�, which not only charges your battery, but maintains AND desulfates your battery. You can purchase this most anyplace, and is probably the best on the market right now for the price (Around $49.00).
3. Store them with a full charge, and if you're not going to use them, recharge at least once a month.
4. They like to be recharged almost immediately after use, so don't run your predator light all the way down and then take the battery out of the trunk 6 weeks later to charge it, you will not pass Predator Basic 101!
5. They are a bit heavier than most other batteries, but they make up for current availability in their construction.
POWER & CURRENT: How to figure it out
There is some confusion in regard to power/current ratings, and I hope to clear this up quickly............
Every battery that we use has what is called an AMP/HOUR rating. This is simply how much current a battery can provide in one hours' time. My 12 volt predator light battery (See picture below) reads 8 amp/hour on the side. This means that if my light is drawing 8 amps, my battery should be close to dead in about an hour, period. 6 and 12 volt batteries come in a variety of amp/hour ratings according to need, and I'm using the 8 amp/hour as an example.
One part of Ohm's law, which is the basis for figuring out just about every part of an electronic circuit ever created, states that Power divided by Voltage equals Current, so....... if your predator light bulb is rated at 60 watts power (You can get this number from the supplier or read it on most bulbs), and you have a freshly charged 12 volt battery running it at full steam, you will be drawing 5 amps (60/12= 5). At this point, with your 8 amp/hour battery, you further divide 8 by 5, and your light will last appx. 1.6 hours or less running full bore. (Due to the fact that no battery or bulb is perfect).
Be reminded that these calculations are for a light that is "full-on", not one that uses an electronic dimmer. Battery time will vary according to how you are using your light/dimmer setup.
Now remember that we DON'T need a whole lot of light to fire up those eyes out there, unless you have a really big property and you're out several hundred yards, so when we perform modifications, we try and use lower wattage halogen bulbs, which means less current to run them, and, of course, an electronic dimmer, which of course lets your battery last even longer! We concentrate on overall focus as well, and recommend a shroud over your light to keep the overflow from lighting you up, keeping glare off your gun and flooding your scope with red light as well. You'll have time to identify the furry thing as it gets closer, and may only need to turn up full bore to make your shot.
Power and current calculations will also work with a 6 volt battery too, and we'll figure one out here. Let's say your Optronics 6 volt setup has a bulb that is 55 watts. If you divide 55/6 you get 9.1 amps in "full-on position", because there is no other position EXCEPT full-on. We'll let it go at 9 amps and forget the decimal. Divide your 5 amp/hour battery by 9 and you get .5 hours, or 1/2 hour. Your battery will last ONLY one-half hour, not much to do anything on a long stand! You'll either have to get more batteries, or a much bigger 6 volt with higher current capacity.
TIP!: Some battery manufacturers (Universal, PowerSonic, etc.) manufacture private label SLA batteries for predator light companies, placing the specific brand name on the battery. Now some folks are charging an arm and a leg for that "special" extra battery from the factory to operate your light, (see the word "Crapola" in the dictionary), but there's nothing really special about your light battery!
Also remember that a certain percentage of the money you pay if you order over the Internet is the shipping because of the weight of the battery.
Guys and gals: There are only so many battery manufacturers, and most SLA batteries are made to specific industry standards, although all are made outside the U.S. these days. If your battery is not marked with any numbers you understand, or privately labeled, remember this: As long as you know the operating voltage, call or visit your local reliable battery supplier, tell them you have a 6 or 12 volt battery (or whatever), either show it to them or GIVE THEM THE DIMENSIONS over the telephone and they will likely be able to tell you what you've got! Then buy a spare from them for less $$....support your local business!
