One of the topics we will address is nighttime hunting with lights. We are fortunate here in Pa., and in many other states, in that we can use lights, both hand held and gun mounted, to determine when those critters are coming to the call.
REMEMBER: If you are going to use a gun mounted light in Pa., you must have a secondary light to scan with and properly identify your target! SAFETY FIRST!
For you "first timers" out there, we use hand held calls or electronic calls to simulate an animal in distress (Which means "free meal" to the predator). We then use a light with a red lens or red filter to slowly scan the fields or woodlines, looking for "eyes". As you know, red lights are the most efficient way to find a fox, coyote or coon because their eyes glow and reflect back towards us as we scan, almost looking like two small reddish/orange flashlights as they head towards the hunter. They cannot discern what might be hiding behind that light if we use it properly, and THAT is to our advantage!
There are several quality light manufacturers throughout the U.S. and other countries, such as Optronics (Now part of the Primos family), Nite Lite, Lightforce (Australia) and many others. Designs are not consistent, however, as each has advantages and disadvantages. While I respect each hunters decision to use whatever works for him or her, I have also had several inquiries as to modifications to make existing lights more efficient and longer lasting without the cost of purchasing a new light and accessories.
We are going to talk about hat lights, hand held lights or gun/scope mounted designed lights, as they are basically the same with different mounting systems.
As a first example, I will use the Optronics (Primos) scope mounted predator light, of which there are a few models, two models of which I personally own. A fellow hunter came to me and was concerned that his 6 volt light wasn't lasting as long as he liked. A quick look determined that in their 6 volt system, there was no controller or dimmer, and a smaller type SLA battery (Sealed Lead Acid Battery) was being used. Once that switch was thrown, the bulb was "full-on" and drained the battery at a pretty good clip.
Now predator hunters who used these 6 volt lights sometimes scanned right from the "git-go" when they got into a field, and they let things settle down for 15-20 minutes to compensate for any noise made or movement detected, especially in coyote territory. But that light is still burning. Consider the time entering the field, scanning, calling, waiting, calling a bit more, waiting, etc., and you can see that the battery is still pumping current. Possibly two or three stands later with no dimmer and a small battery and you're done, your battery is out of gas, so it's time to change batteries (If you carry a spare) or go home and charge the dead one, because there's no 6 volt car charger...so you understand the dilemma they had. Now please don't think I'm knocking those specific lights; as I first stated, I have two.....BUT, I modified them for a 12 volt system, teamed them up with a Lightforce battery pack/ dimmer setup and car charger and now all my lights, including my fellow hunters' modified lights are GTG (Good to Go)........
REMINDER: Predator light companies may advertise certain ranges (yardage) to either see eyes or identify those furry things. These advertised ranges, in MY OPINION, ARE NOT made with a red lens or red filter in place! The amount of light you have getting out there is going to be pretty much CUT IN HALF once you place a strong red lens or filter in front of it, and you cannot tell how far you will see eyes or identify a creature UNLESS you test it! (See our "Test FOX" picture)
